Initially, on the first check of the trap-out at Nolan & Cory's (I call them "Nory" :) ), there were no bees in the box. I realized my mistake: I'd not put a frame or two with eggs, larvae and brood in the box as a lure. On my second trip I'd done just that. Also I repaired a hole and second entrance they'd made through the duct tape (in the video I saw attic insulation, but really it was a window-unit air conditioner insulation; that stuff was crucial in plugging up the holes, so I'll have that cheap material on hand for any future trap outs). The videos show the lure frame and the entrance repair (I apologize for the awful sounds at the end of one of the lure video ... this is new to me.)

A couple weeks passed. It was time to check. SUCCESS! When I took off the top I was greeted with a decent amount of bees. Also there was a nice piece of comb they'd attached to the lid, which made for a nice little souvenir. It's 16 feet in the air so I had to reach over from the top of the ladder and pull the frames out one by one to see which frames had bees. Only one frame did, but it was a gorgeous frame with a fair amount of bees and fresh comb on it where they'd finished building out the bottom corners.

I put the frame in the bucket and lowered it down. I then put the frames in my travel nuc, which had the bottom stapled to it with some screen over the entrance and a screen flap underneath the lid. I rubber-banded the lid partially open during the ride home, since the whole affair is quite disturbing to the bees and their temperature rises quite high. If you don't ventilate, you'll cook the bees.

Two weeks had passed, and the lure frame was filled with capped brood and a few larvae. You can see that in the third photo below. It takes only 9 days from a freshly laid egg to become capped brood. That means the old queen has been in the trap box and on the lure frame, laying away. That's even MORE success, because now I know I can lure the queen out. Once she's removed I'll lower the trap door with the one-way escape, thereby removing all remaining bees inside the patio roof at Nory's. This is working! But the BEST part was seeing on this single frame a gorgeous capped queen cell. This single frame was now a queen-right colony. The queen cell is the large light-colored cell hanging from the top side of the frame hanging out and down. I wasn't sure if the old queen was on the frame or not, but either way the colony had decided to supersede her. My first trap-out is quite an education and thrill ride.

Once placed into my apiary, they seemed quite content. A brief removal of the lid a week later and all was quiet, indicating they're happy with their newly hatched queen. I still have plenty of bees to remove from Nory's, but with this first take-away I already have colony #6 in the apiary. My next take-aways might mean colony #7 and possibly #8! I'd better get to building more equipment and fast! And painting. And building more frames.

I can't believe how fast and furious this year has been in the bee raising business at T's Bees. I still hope that my first ever honey harvest this year will get me close to my goal of 150 pounds. Even if it doesn't I'll be happy with the 90 pounds I know is out there. But all of these extra colonies mean I can sell nucs to those needing some emergency bees after initial failures, as well as have plenty of backup queens. I'm going to turn these nucs into comb-building machines, since comb is so crucial to success. That way next  year's honey harvest is bound to be quite large! :)
 
 
So in the past couple of weeks, nectar just hasn't been flowing. Pollen wasn't coming into the hives, and the bees had stopped drawing wax in the supers, another sure sign. In the meantime, they've had an unquenchable thirst for water, and it's not even that hot. I was thrilled to see bees by the dozens finally hitting the birdbath just off our back porch some 50 yards away from the apiary.

I use rainwater from our rain barrels in the bath. I've put both city water in a dish beside the rain water, and every time they go for the rain water. It's also a joy to just hang out with the bees who're busy getting a drink. You can get super close and listen as they buzz right around your head en route to the watering hole. They seem to like it when the level is low, as they use the sides of the bird bath to line up and get drinks. I've also noticed hygienic behavior at the bath, the bees grooming each other after getting their fill of water to take back to the hive. I'll definitely be adding a self-watering mechanism and another bird bath or two so they'll have plenty come summer (and won't be a bother to the neighbors).
 
 
Looking at Natasha's incorrect lean since last year, I knew I had to go in and level off that hive some how. I'd levelled off the hives using my new configuration of two cinder blocks and a 2x3x8 hive stand atop them for my two full hives. Or, so I thought. But Yvonne was alarmed at how "off" one of the cinderblocks was underneath Natasha's new stand. The hives were even but their support wasn't. Yep, I had to redo the long process I'd done just a week ago. I got smarter this time, thank goodness. The older I get the more I see that "smarter" almost always is simpler and less work in the long run.
__This was true here. I simply decided to move the hives a few feet forward on more level ground while I was at it. This meant I wouldn't have to stand behind my hives on a hillside while I work the hives, going forward. I dug out the space for the cinder blocks and hive stand, and used my level app on my smart phone until the stand was just right. I took apart the supers and then the brood boxes, stacking each atop one another.
They hadn't drawn any further comb in the supers, by the way. :( I moved the bottom board and slatted rack in place and re-assembled in reverse order. Then I did the same for Boris. The bees were surprisingly calm, compared to just a week earlier when I'd leveled off the hives originally with my new hive stand configuration. (It uses a single 2x3x8 piece of lumber and 5" lag screws underneath each end to allow for the imperfect ground beneath each cinderblock. If additional settling occurs I simple will adjust the lag screws when needed.) Then I repeated for Boris.
_With both Boris and Natasha leveled off, I did the same for the nucs. I left a beautiful space for the future colony that I was trapping out at Cory & Nolans. I'll make another hive stand and set up my other nuc that I'd started off in a deep brood box. I like the consolidation that this plan allows for. I may end up removing the telescoping top covers for my first two nucs and replace them with homemade migratory covers, so I can get all four nucs on a single stand. Actually, I think that's what I'll do, moving my lone nuc off to the left to join the others. I already feel better, with a tidier apiary where I can put even more nucs and hives. I now know that planning up front, and doing the work correctly the first time actually IS simpler and eventually means less work and frustration, and happier bees and beekeeper. After all, T's Bees is a happy, organic wonderland. Now, I'll have to get to painting those nucs and adorning them with their cartoon characters for easy reference and to help the bees recognize their hive from their neighbors. Hmmm, I wonder what characters I use as I continue beautifying the apiary? ;)
 
 
This was a month ago, and I'm only now getting a chance to write about it. For the trap-out at Cory & Nolans, I needed some empty comb. I didn't have any, since I'm in my second year. However, I'm now putting my nucs into comb-production mode. Still I had an immediate need, so I decided to take two honey frames from Boris and Natasha, and give them another empty frame to draw out each. This will also bide me some time. Both brood nests are getting back-filled with honey. Each has a full super of honey on top. I've got to convince them to draw out a second super. Aaaugh, so much to do and so little time. So, I took two honey frames and had to extract them. It was time to get out my simple bench extractor and get reacquainted, so come harvest time, just around the corner, I'll know exactly what's going on. I can't tell you how pulling a few honey frames is a remarkable learning experience. And, guess what? You get honey out of it! Each deep frame can hold 8-9 pounds of honey. Since I'm running 9 frames in a 10-deep, my frames are in the 9-pound range.
I've eaten a lot of honey over the past year and a half. I bought nice, new comb-styled jars for my customers. But I broke out my big old used honey jars I'd gotten from Hillbilly Produce and others to take care of this extracted honey. So, while extracting, I had to first uncap the frames. Then, after uncapping, I decided it'd be smart to put the cappings in the extractor along with the frames, you know, to spin out the honey. Big mistake. What came out of the extractor was honey and wax, and all kinds of extra bits. Yes, I'd forgotten the part called straining, which comes before bottling. Good grief, I won't make this mistake again. So, I kept all of this honey from mid-April in various jars and a bowl. I waited a couple weeks, busy with other things to do. And I realized that if you let your honey sit, all of the foreign particles, wax and other bits, float to the top for easy removal. Still, I had a much better tool, a straining system and storage bucket with honey gate. I waited until Yvonne had no more patience and demanded her glass bowl back. I strained all of the honey, and then bottled it. I originally told Yvonne that this was most likely left over sugar syrup stores from when I'd fed the bees sugar syrup last fall, prepping them for winter. I should've known I was wrong. I was delighted to see this beautiful early spring "top shelf" light honey chock full of Spring 2012's pollen. So, even though I'd have to wait another month or more to do my spring harvest, I was able to put aside my first bottles ever of my very own honey. I put a sticky label on this highly prized jar, and will enjoy this first bottle by the fire on a brutally cold day in winter, remembering what a glorious Spring we've had, and my first harvest ever.

 
 
So my experience with Nolan pointed out the beauty of making your own equipment. For less than $40 in plywood we cut out enough material to make 2 deep brood boxes and 4 nucs. Okay, I was bitten by the power-tool and DIY bug. I started by making myself some nice, tall sawhorses. I used a 4-foot piece of plywood I had on hand as my work table. My apiary is suddenly expanding. I started with two colonies. Then after I split Boris I had 2 more. Cory & Nolan's feral bees would make hive 5.
Oh, and I had to split one of my nucs to prevent a swarm. All signs of bearding up constantly on the outside, and having 4 frames full of bees in a 5-frame nuc told me to do a walk-away split. Now I have 5 colonies in the backyard. I needed to get my apiary consolidated and ready to accept the growing number of hives. I left too much space between Boris & Natasha last year, and Natasha was at a bad angle. I started by making a simple 2-hive hive stand out of a single 2x3x8.
_Cut two 3-foot pieces, and two 1-foot pieces. Use the 1-foot pieces to mark off from the ends where the crossbars should go. Nail them on the inside of that line. I got this off of a YouTube video. But my apiary's ground is uneven, and I can't have my hives just on this 2x3 stand. I must have them on the yellow cinder blocks. I decided to put the hive stand atop the cinder blocks. I added a 5-inch lag screw on each end of the stand, so I could adjust the stand to level the hives once I got the cinder blocks in place. Worked like a charm.
As luck would have it, I already had these shelves just waiting to be used. Yvonne had wanted me to hang them in the laundry room and now we had a good use for them. This is where Ts Bees Honey inventory will be kept. And, we won't go into how many holes I left in the wall that must be spackled, sanded and repainted, nor the stripped screw that's still sticking out of the wall that I gotta remove, either. And we won't mention the fact that I have the end braces too far in and need to move those out another 8 inches. No, we won't talk about that. Well, this whole thing is live-and-learn (the hard way) anyway. Onto the next lesson!
 
 
A week before Yvonne and I were to visit our dear friends Cory & Nolan's, I got a call from Cory. We were excited to see their new home, which they'd been working on so hard for a year and a half,  transforming a half-finished box with a roof into a magnificent home. As the Universe would have it, they also had several thousand new residents they hadn't anticipated: honey bees. I'd decided that I wasn't going to be in the bee extraction business just yet on my own. The Universe had decided otherwise. Taking up the mantle of a public service, I was nevertheless excited. Cory sent me this video to verify it was honey bees and to show thier location.
I spent the week researching my options. "Can I remove the outer wall of your brand new stone front porch?" Not surprised to hear the answer was no. I then decided to perform a trap-out. I poured a week of research into the project, eventually got in touch with Cleo Hogan of Kentucky, who'd perfected a trap-out technique designed to remove all the bees including the queen. To honor Kentucky, we enjoyed some bourbon slushies while we were at it.
_ Cleo's method is a longer process than the using the "cone method", but it's a long-term fix designed to get ALL of the bees, brood, and honey out of the cavity. Nolan has an engineer's mind and builds things for a living. Here, we go over the plans and discuss our plan of attack.
The Hogan trap-out method requires a little bit of specialized equipment. Low on funds for equipment, I decided to build my own using Nolan's assistance and power tools. I found an amazingly simple plan to build nucs by the late Dan Coates. It makes four out of a single sheet of plywood, including tops, bottoms and cleats. You simply double the width for deeps. You can find this information at the Bee Source forums. Since we needed a deep for the trap-out, we had to modify the plan. Working with Nolan was total fun!
_I gotta say I've been bitten by the power tools bug. DIY is much more inexpensive than buying all of the specialized boxes and boards for beekeeping. Guess I'm becoming a carpenter after all. Thank you once more, Universe. Amazing how this stuff works out, you know? Since Nolan was the construction expert, I brought the bee-related tools and blueprints, and kept the process organized as we ripped the sheets down to the different parts and pieces. Getting those mixed up would be a headache later that we'd want to avoid.
The basic concept of the trap-out is to reduce the bees' entrance to a single small opening, lure the bees into a new hive body, then close off the old entrance. The entrance is outfitted with a bridge tube. That tube will fit around another tube that feeds into a hive body. Here you can see the specialized tube fitting into the hive body, and it's larger female counterpart which will be fitted onto the bees' current entrance and exit.
_ Along the way frames of bees are taken out to weaken the colony. As the colony weakens, the queen, any remaining nurse bees, and any emerging brood will have less food available as the colony's numbers are reduced. With less food, fewer bees to keep her warm and the smell of open, fresh brood and eggs I'll put in the trap-out box, the queen will (hopefully) move to the new hive body.  A trap door is lowered once the queen has entered the box. With the trap door lowered, any remaining bees can only enter the hive body and not return to their original location. The process likely will take 6-8 weeks.
_I thanked Cory & Nolan for being kind to the honey bees. So many people would just spray with poison and assume it would take care of the bees. Almost always it doesn't, as you can't get into every nook and cranny they've colonized behind the walls, ceilings, floors or what-have-you. Here is the inner tube with the hole for the one-way entrance trap.
Part of the trap involves the "cone method" of removing bees. Basically you make a cone of small mesh screen, fray the ends a bit, make the end large enough for a drone to exit and the other end as large as the opening for the bees' original entrance. The cone, screen and frayed ends confuses the bees and they can't return to their original location. We only needed a small cone for this trap-out tube. The great thing about this tube is that I'll be able re-use it on other jobs.
We glued the cone in place then added staples for extra security. Since space is an issue in the confined space, Nolan cut a hole in the bottom corner of the hive body for the tube to slide in. Also cutting three sides instead of four is simpler and in my book, better. I used a hammer to convince the snugly fitting inner tube to extend outside the hive. Our bridge tube is about seven inches long. The inner tube is about five inches, so there's plenty of overlap and it'll be easy to install.
Yvonne and Cory were awesome enough to document us men-folk making this special equipment. Yvonne gets in frame while documenting the action. Here Nolan uses his pneumatic brad nailer to attach the front handhold. I gotta get me one of those things. A pneumatic brad nailer and air compressor sure would make for a nice birthday or Christmas present (hint, hint). Below you see the trap door Nolan made. It's simplicity is awesome. An L-bracket. That's it. Did I tell you he's an engineer?
He added a bit of strapping, folded up a couple times, for a spacer so the bracket would be close enough to the door but far enough away that it can slide easily in and out. He also put in a top brace so the trap door will be secure once it's slid into place. Nolan later added a handle to the door: a simple wood screw on the side. Brilliant.
Below, Nolan attaches the back cleat. Part of this brilliant box design is the cleats for the handhold. The front and back are shorter than the sides. The outside cleats even up against the sides, making for a recessed lip at the front and back for the frames to rest inside the box. No dados required. Nolan then affixed a bit of screen onto the entrance tube we'll place at the colony's entrance. He folded the screen back to allow for ease of passage so the rough edges don't get in the way of the bees coming and going. This reduced the opening to better fit the bees' vertical entrance on their patio overhang. We mounted the bridge tube to the stucco of the patio using L-brackets, a hammer drill and masonry screws. We added a bottom panel that jutted out to make up for the notch at the bottom of the stucco trim and patio wall.
Ta-daa, box complete. There was a bit too much overhang on top. Nolan will trim it back to 3/4" so I can easily pick the box up, but still leave enough overhang to keep rain out. There are small cleats on the underside of the top which keeps the lid on. I later found out that as the cleats rest on top of the top bars, the cover is automatically ventilated. The Coates plan is truly simple and efficient. This is a migratory style outer cover. No inner cover is required. OK, building is complete! Now we need to suit up and do some installation. I fired up the smoker and then showed Nolan how to put on and secure a veil.
Unfortunately, Nolan had to suit up in the old nylon coveralls my brother Tim had given me. You look like you either work at a meat packing plant or you're a psycho killer attending a disco ball in this thing. I assured him nothing was getting through that nylon though. Since he was a little concerned about bees climbing up his legs, I secured his leg openings with duct tape. (Always have duct tape on hand, as well as a stapler. I figured he wouldn't be keen on the idea of my using a stapler securing his pants.)
Nolan completes his get up and our photo team insisted on a posed shot. Nolan's first honey bee experience and my first trap-out was about to commence. Although I had a brand new hatless veil, I was about to find out that I hate, hate, hate looking up in that hatless veil. You end up getting the screen squished against your face and your vision's obscured. There must be a better veil out there. I'll retire this thing to backup status and hopefully soon.
Oh, crap. Did I forget to mention I'm afraid of heights? Yep, my second bee removal experience and again, more than one story up. Guess I'll be getting over my fear of heights along the way, too. Thanks, Universe. We put his ladder in place. It took me a while to get used to going up and then getting comfortable on the ladder. Nolan did an amazing job of coaching me through it and teaching me a technique for working on the ladder. After several attempts and lots of encouragement from Nolan and Cory, I finally made it up there. We slid the trap into place to see how it would fit, and then I marked positions for the L-bracket screws, top and bottom.
Then it was time to drill. Using Nolan's hammer drill, I put in some pilot holes. Everyone said there was a huge cloud of bees that were appearing as work was getting underway. Funny thing was, the more bees there were the calmer I got. I could smell the honey and comb of the hive from inside the overhang as I worked. That and the buzz made me forget I was working 10 feet or so up (it may as well have been a mile as far as I was concerned). Everyone said the photos didn't do justice to the number of bees flying about. I just knew I enjoyed their company.
We'd bought air conditioner foam insulation at the hardware store prepping for the trap-out. That was a GREAT call. I used my hive tool to stuff the foam into the crack that went 2 feet up from the hive's entrance. You must seal off all other entries for this to work. Once that was done, I inspected for a while. Sure enough some bees had found tiny holes to still go in and out of. I used as much foam as I could. It was perfect. But to be sure, I duct taped all along the upper crack and around the tube bridge to ensure a bee-proof seal. As I closed off all but the tube's entrance, guard bees coming out to defend and foragers trying to return home starting quickly building up. I was ecstatic when I saw two bees find the new entrance and start fanning their Nasinov glands to send a pheromone that said, "Hey, girls, over here! This is our entrance and exit." Nolan and I made some videos with Cory's iPhone while we were there. Hopefully we'll get those uploaded on the next trap-out post.
Top view of the commotion going on after the bridge was installed. They were quite confused at first. These girls are beautiful, yellow honey bees. Eventually they'll make a nice addition to my apiary full of dark Russians and local hybrids. You can also see a group of bees just outside the entrance. They performed a parade, exiting the tube and then turning around and going back towards it, then repeating in a loop. They were a greeting party to show returning foragers exactly where to come and go. I'd spent an hour or so up the ladder. Not bad for an acrophobe. Phase 1 was complete!
 
 
By the end of March and beginning of April Spring had fully blossomed. Our apple tree had an early showing, too. I just knew it would prove an undeniable magnet for T's Bees. They wasted no time. For those two weeks they were pollinating Miss Apple.
The azaleas also were putting on quite a show. And honey bees weren't the only pollinators working the field.
My favorite flower, the dogwood, was going strong. Spring had come early, the first week in February in 2012. Some early dogwoods bloomed and then quickly died. I was happy to see the majority saved up their blossoms for the end of March.
Our collards had also bolted and showed off their colors. I had no idea collards flowers were so pretty. The honey bees didn't seem interested. I guess this classic Southern green is definitely an acquired taste!
As the azaleas and apple trees were at their peak, the red tips began to flower. I'd never seen this before. Fronds of tiny little flowers formed at the ends of the leaves and popped open. They hadn't last year, at least ours. We have the last red tip in our neighborhood and is over 40 years old. T's Bees loved their very quick and tiny blossoms!
Two weeks into April and the apple trees and azaleas were done. Our first roses are on the vine, as are the many blossoms of our raspberry and blackberry brambles. Our blueberry bushes, which blossomed the first week of March, are full of berries. Today, the honeybees were all about the brambles. I was amazed at this all-black honey bee. Was this a feral bee? Was it a legendary German black bee, the original honey bee brought to America? Was this one of my Russian bees, or was this one of my Russian-Charlotte hybrids from one of my two nucs underway? This black honey bee was hypnotic, watching it work. The early spring flowers have me eagerly awaiting that first light spring honey harvest!
 
 
So 25 days had passed from when I'd made my first spring splits off of Hive Boris, who was threatening to swarm and in a big way. I'd made two nucs, and was hoping and praying they'd succeed. If they did, I'd have 2 backup queens and/or 2 more hives in my apiary. Since the queen cells were capped, I figured they'd need a minimum of 21 days to hatch and mature into laying queens. It was time to look. The first nuc looked awfully busy when I removed the cover. Here are the four frames minus the in-hive frame feeder I first put in.
As you can see, they certainly didn't need any extra feeding with all of the nectar coming in. Just look at this frame of capped honey! And not just a little bit of honey, a full frame of it! It was the same story on the second side. Seeing this made me realize I'd need to keep a keen eye on my nucs, as the honey flow is in full swing. If the nucs run out of room, just like hives Boris and Natasha they'll start thinking about swarming. All I need to do is keep them busy and keep giving them space and room for the queen to lay.
And (drum roll please) ............ YES, this was what I was looking for! A frame of worker brood, in a beautiful tight pattern. Nuc #1 has a laying queen. She successfully hatched, oriented (I got to witness that), flew off and mated, and made her way back home and is up and running! There are so many obstacles and potential pitfalls in a virgin queen's way that I find it amazing it can succeed. Well, the proof is in the brood frame! Having seen what I came to see, I buttoned up this nuc and moved on to the second, holding my breath just a bit.
Before I left nuc #1, I put in an empty frame for them to draw out, replacing the frame feeder. This way she'll have room to lay and the colony will continue growing.
Okay, onto the second nuc. I only gave this one three frames. It felt like removing 7 frames of brood with the queen cells was the max I should take out of Boris when I did the early spring split to prevent swarming. So far, nuc #2 is lookin' good!
And, YES, nuc #2 has a laying queen. I was ecstatic when I saw this frame of capped brood in a tight pattern, with some new bees hatching out. Since these nucs are small, I didn't waste time looking for the queens. I know they're in there. The proof is in the brood. I removed this nuc's frame feeder and replaced it with an open frame for it to draw out and the colony to continue its expansion. Well, it's official, I now have hives 3 and 4 in my apiary, and I am a BEE BREEDER! I feel like I've arrived.
I cleaned up all the excess burr comb the nucs had made. When I got back in from the apiary, I noticed one piece was pristine white and full of fresh honey. I enjoyed my first taste of T's Bees honey. This bit of Top Shelf White Spring Honey was the bees' knees with floral notes, super sweetness and a soft grape finish. I can hardly wait for the harvest this season! So far so good with these early successes in the apiary.
 
 
"Tanging" bees. Apparently it's real (... or is it?). When I heard of this I thought, "no way, that's an urban legend." Well, check this out and decide for yourself! It's the only one of these I've ever seen. Hopefully more examples of tanging will be found. All I know is, if I see a swarm in my back yard? You betcha, I'm grabbing a pot and a spoon and tanging away!

 
 
So the day after the Dustructor maelstrom, I readied my homemade slatted rack for Boris, and Imrie shim for Natasha if I made it that far. I had to take my lunch at the end of the day from work, scoot on home, suit up and do what I could before the sun got too low. I'd also done some extra research on gentle inspections and keeping calm bees. I'd done enough to anger them, I figured. I also changed the way I used smoke: I start my smoker well before I go to the apiary, so the smoke is cool. And, I give a few puffs and GIVE THEM TIME to go down into the hive and fill their bellies with honey, calming them down.
_I suspected I was too late and Boris had already swarmed, even with the 7 frames I'd taken away a couple weeks ago to make two splits off my original hive. I was ecstatic to be greeted by lots of busy bees in the shallow honey super. Even more-so to see fresh comb had been drawn out! The question was, how well on the empty foundationless frames?
WONDERFULLY! They were really drawing out their fresh comb. Half of the super's frames were empty two weeks ago. Amazing how fast they not only draw it out but fill it with honey. You can see they're already capping. This frame was heavy, and attached now on all four sides of the frame.
More progress on this frame. Their comb was still somewhat divided. Previously I'd twisted the left pieces more center, and it looks like that worked. They're still overlapping. But a lot of this is good. I gently pushed in the center piece to better touch the big piece at left. When going foundationless you've got to keep an eye on their progress until they draw out straight comb. I'm hopeful this one will work out. If not, I'll extract this using the crush 'n strain method and harvest the wax. All good no matter what. :-)
Half-way in and no more swarm cells. I moved slowly and kept remembering "gentle, gentle." I'd started my inspection by removing the second frame and putting it in the work box. This gives me extra room to slide over the adjacent frames, lift them out without rolling the bees and put them back in easily. And when I put in that next-to-last frame when I'm done, the bees won't get crushed against the wall of the super, but nestled in-between soft comb. This frame was beautifully drawn and the queen is laying lots up here.
_Lots of good drone on this frame, in a tight pattern. As the season progresses, this'll hatch out and I'm hopeful they'll fill the empty frame in the super with honey. I'm not using an excluder. I believe in not restricting the queen's movements. If she needs room, I'll give it to her. I was jazzed to see they still hadn't finished drawing this to the bottom and she'd been laying up a storm.
A gorgeous honey frame, quite heavy. I am ecstatic I'll be getting SOME honey this season. It was so white and translucent. I can't wait for early spring honey. What a treasure! This is a foundation frame. Check out how the honey's been capped in a horizontal line.
My favorite frame so far. Pure foundationless and totally chock full of nectar and capped honey. Compare this to the previous shot, which was a foundation frame. The honey is capped in a more natural wedge shape, even though this comb is being drawn on a rectangular frame. This one still has a ways to go to be drawn out but the natural-sized cells are much smaller. Bigger isn't always better. The smaller cells means more places to store honey. Sure it's smaller, but I've read that they can put more honey and brood in the smaller sized cells.
_Also, the small cells in natural comb make a big difference in keeping the Varroa Destructor mites at bay. They can't reproduce as quickly or as often in the smaller cells. Chemical-free, baby! And happier bees, naturally.
Okay, now THIS is my favorite frame so far. Another gorgeous foundationless frame. This all-natural way is WORKING! The proof is in the honey. :-)
The new frames have been heavily worked. You can tell just be looking in-between the frames. I decided to GENTLY smoke the top box from a couple feet away, lid it with an extra inner screen, move it to my work wagon, and go down to the bottom box. I needed to install that slatted rack, and this top hive body was where 4 of 7 frames had been taken for the splits two weeks ago. I will harvest that honey frame from the bottom hive body.
Time to work my way downstairs. No swarm cells in the shallow super or top hive body. I needed to check on the empty frames I'd put in for the brood nest in the bottom hive body. I harvested a single honey frame from the bottom hive body and moved the adjacent frames over to the side. I then put another empty frame in the #3 slot, which opened up the brood nest again. They'll draw it out in the next week or two, and the queen has room to lay another 8,400 or so eggs on natural-drawn comb. Keep 'em busy and give HRH tons of room to lay, and I think I just might convince Boris to not swarm but make a lot of precious honey and wax.
In the bottom brood chamber, one of the empty foundationless frames I'd put in just two weeks ago. Remember how well they've drawn out the empty frames in two weeks on the super? That's nothing compared to this! Almost completely drawn and touching on all four sides (they just attached to the bottom, off-center to the left. You can see them working on it in this shot. Lots of worker larvae in this one, so the queen was here in the last 4-8 days.
_The cells will be capped on day 9 and then they'll emerge a day or 3 later. I put in this empty frame just 15 days ago on March 11. IT'S WORKING! The empty frames are being drawn super fast and then queen is laying. Since the larvae has been there for up to a week, that means they drew this one out PRONTO in a matter of days, putting lots of nurses to work, with the queen happily laying in the opened-up brood nest.
I harvested a single frame from the side of the bottom hive body. In goes a fresh, empty frame. I'm going to keep them working on brood comb, honey comb, and not thinking about making swarm cells. Note the starter strip is simply the wedge I popped off and nailed vertically.
The honey frame. I will freeze this for a day to ensure there are no wax moth or SHB larvae in there, and later I'll uncap and extract the nectar and honey. I'll give that back to the bees, and will have empty combs for backup. I may use some empty combs to give my nucs a jumpstart in building a big hive in the fall. In the meantime I'll use a comb or two for putting in a bait hive to catch a swarm or two. AND, I'll have some empty comb for swarm prevention next spring. Always think ahead is what I've learned so far. :-)
I was amazed at the difference my changes in conducting a gentle inspection makes. I installed my nifty 9-frame slatted rack, and loved how it looked. They seemed happy with it. I think they love the smell of rough-cut cedar, too!
Having outfitted and inspected Boris on Monday, with no swarm cells in sight, I did the same for Natasha on Tuesday. The gentle smoke and extra time make a huge difference. I was ecstatic to see this honey super, and all the new foundationless comb she's built in the week since I last inspected.
One gorgeous foundationless frame. I love how they're working in groups. You can see some bees gathering in the middle and have started adjoining the two pieces in the middle. All of Natasha's shallow super frames were filled with spring nectar and capped honey. I'll need to soon make super #2!
And another gorgeous foundationless frame. YES!
OMG, this one's a real beaut! Way to go hive Natasha! All of her fresh foundation is being drawn straight up and down.
The frame on the furthest end, also being drawn down in several groups.
And the last end frame on the opposite end. Three of five frames in the super have been virtually fully drawn and filled with nectar in a short time. And no swarm cells in the super! That cell I saw on my previous blog post must've been a practice cell. I've heard that Russian bees like to build them, just in case and to stay in practice. Seems to be true. Still I take it as a sign to give them more room in the brood nest. Natasha is now my largest hive since the splits off of Boris.
Now this is an interesting frame from the top brood chamber. A large honeyband at top, and some drone cells. But notice it's a foundation frame from last year and still not fully drawn.
A great honey frame from the #2 position, but still not 100% drawn out, though it's at like 98% drawn (there's still undrawn cells along the bottom). Lots of fresh nectar and honey caps. Natasha was getting louder and angrier, as all of her foragers were coming in for the night. I still thought "gentle," used cool smoke and slow controlled motions. I must say that squatting and using my legs to lift these heavy boxes makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE. It saves my back, and so not hurting I stay calm. When I'm working the bottom box I also kneel if I get tired of squatting. Makes a big difference.
I wanted to harvest a single honey frame from one of the deep brood boxes of Natasha and also replace that with an empty frame. This hive is going strong. I was using gentle cool puffs of smoke from a couple feet away, extra inner screens on each box that I removed, slow controlled motions and gentle thoughts. Still, I started getting popped from angry guards. And I needed to get into this bottom hive body of Natasha's for the first time this year. All frames were heavily propolized. The bees were angry with me since sundown was closer and it was cooler than on Monday, about 63 degrees and falling fast.
All hell broke loose when I tried to move the bottom brood box off the slatted rack I'd made. The rack AND bottom board all came up with the hive body; they'd already propolized it in just a week. I slowly returned the hive body, rack and bottom board to its place on the hive stand, apologized to a lot of kamakaze guards hitting me, took deep breaths, pried everything loose and finally separated the brood box from the slatted rack. I got stung through my gloves once, and then again on my right ankle. Then another on my ankle. And then another. It was time to tighten up that boot band! I really need to get some taller boots. I was pleased that I remained calm. I collected my 5th sting of the year, all through protective clothing. _Then I put on the extra Imrie shim I made from my brother's free cedar wood (thanks, Dan, I want more!) so that the slatted rack has a proper 2 inches of extra space for the bees to hang out on, between the bottom of the frames and the bottom board. This also opens up the bottoms for the queen to lay in. The drafts from outside and congested traffic from foragers coming and going on the bottom board will convince the queen to not lay along the bottom of the frames. The slatted rack gives her extra space as well and diverts a lot of nurse bees. So in addition to harvesting the honey frame, I also opened up Natasha a bit with the slatted rack. Just like IPM, I'm thinking a combination approach to swarm prevention is key. Fingers crossed, knock on rough-cut wood!
_I peered underneath all boxes, tipping them up and looking from underneath. NO SWARM CELLS! I was quite happy. And my stings weren't really bothering me. I must be getting used to this. Glad I had protective clothing, though. She still seems the angrier of the two hives, but look, not a huge amount of bees out front compared to "Dustructor Sunday." I still think the time of day, though, makes a huge difference, and I had to do this at the end of the day. I don't blame Natasha ... at least not yet. If she keeps being angry, though, I'll re-queen her come Autumn.
__You can see my work box in the background. You need at least one of these for your inspections. You won't regret it. I also put an extra outer cover in my wagon, which has a little shelf on it. The extra outer cover goes down just a bit in the wagon, making a second wagon shelf. I can fit two hive bodies on my wagon. And, since it's close to waist height it really saves my back. For the first time I'm not killing my back working the bees. Thanks to Gerry Mack for this tip. It really works (that and using your legs to lift).
I put my harvested honey frame off to the side. I brushed the bees back into the honey super. I should've brushed all of them off. A few will fly back on. Usually, after the brush-off, I place the frame off to the side and come back an hour or two later to find it bee-free. This time, though, this group of bees stayed on the frame all night long. Sorry girls. I even put it beside Natasha's entrance, but they weren't budging. This morning, while temperatures were 48F, I knocked the slow moving bees onto the hive stand and took the treasure inside to the freezer.
This latest honey frame was put in last summer. It was a foundation frame and also wasn't completely drawn on both sides. I'd lifted up one foundationless frame from the brood box to find it mostly drawn out in two weeks. I am now convinced that the bees draw out foundation slower than making their own comb. I am definitely switching over bit by bit to foundationless. I'll use the harvested frames for backups and bait hives, and probably cut a few out and melt down the wax for candles. All in all a very successful inspection and past couple of weeks. I think an early spring honey harvest isn't that far away. I'm quite excited! Next up, more sugar dusting and I've got to check out those nucs in a week, about the 23rd day after the split, to see if queens have hatched, matured, mated and are laying. Then I'll have them for backups, or an apiary increase, or for selling.
 

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    Tom Davidson is the owner and beekeeper at T's Bees.


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